What’s an essence?! Is it a toner, only thicker? A serum, only less moisturising? A hybrid in between the two? Most importantly, is it a revolutionary product you need to incorporate into your skincare routine… or just another Korean gimmick designed to make you spend more money for little to no benefits? Yep, that’s me, always the sceptical one. I need to test something before I can get all excited and give it my seal of approval. And after testing my fair share, here’s all you need to know about skin essences and whether you really need one. Let’s find out:
What’s An Essence?
An essence is “a skincare product that is water-based, often in solution or liquid form, meant to be sprayed or applied on the skin directly after cleansing,” says board-certified dermatologist Rachel Nazarian.
An essence is a hybrid between a toner and a serum. It’s not as heavy and concentrated as a serum, yet it packs more of a hydrating punch than a toner. Essences have lightweight, often runny textures, that make it easy to pack on the hydration without weighting skin down under layers of grease.
This is why they’re so popular in Korea. When the weather’s that humid, your skin needs all the hydration it can get. An extra hydrating step or two in your routine makes sense. But what if you live in a different climate? Do you still need an essence?
Related: 4 Things I’ve Learned From Korean Skincare
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that banishes dryness and makes your skin supple and dewy? Download your FREE “Best Skincare Routine For Dry Skin” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
How Do Essences Work?
Essences are loaded with humectants, a family of ingredients that attracts and binds water to the skin. Hyaluronic Acid is the most famous member of this family. Studies show it attracts and binds to the skin up to 1000 times its weight in water! It works well in high and low humidity conditions, too.
Other humectants you’ll often find in essences are Glycerin, Panthenol, Urea, and Biosaccharide Gum-1. They all do the same hydrating job as Hyaluronic Acid. Here’s why this matters…
Hydration is the foundation of healthy skin. When your skin lacks moisture, it wrinkles like an old prune. It feels tight and uncomfortable during the day. It completely loses its radiance. Add the moisture back in and your skin transforms. The extra moisture plumps up your skin so fine lines and wrinkles look smaller; it makes it softer to the touch; and gives it that beautiful as-if-lit-from-within glow.
P.S. Some essences also contain antioxidants and brightening ingredients to fight premature aging. But their main job is hydration.
Related: If Your Skin Is Perfectly Hydrated, Do You Need To Worry About Anti-Aging, Too?
Essence Benefits: What Does It Do For Skin?
You know now that essences hydrate skin. But why should you go with an essence instead of a toner or serum?
Easy layering: If you have dry or dehydrated skin that needs the extra moisture during the day, an essence is an easy way to sneak it in without turning your face into a greasy mess.
Extra hydration: The more moisture your skin has, the softer and plumper it becomes.
Penetration enhancer: When your skin is moist, active ingredients penetrate your skin more easily. Plus, essences don’t usually contain occlusives that would stand in their way and prevent full absorption. “Essences have similar benefits to a serum, and with a lower molecular weight than most creams, they work to penetrate the skin at a deeper level than your average moisturiser,” says Julia Marinkovich of COSRX.
Related: Dry VS Dehydrated Skin: What’s The Difference And How To Treat Them?
Who Needs An Essence?
It’s true that hydration is the foundation of healthy skin. You can use all the best anti-aging actives in the world, but if your skin isn’t properly hydrated, it’ll always look rough and lacklustre.
That doesn’t mean you have to go mad with hydrating products and add an extra layer or two just cos. I’m a big believer in using only what your skin needs when it needs it.
If you’re already using a good moisturiser and Hyaluronic Acid serum AND your skin still feels tight and dehydrated, go ahead and add an essence to your routine. Everyone else, you don’t need it.
FYI, everyone can suffer from dehydration, including oily skin. Luckily, essences are suitable for ALL skin types.
Related: How To Identify Your Skin Type (Plus, FREE Test)
How To Apply A Skin Essence
You apply an essence after cleanser (and toner), but before serum and moisturiser. If you’re confused, the rule of thumb is to layer products from thinnest to thickest.
“Some people like to apply 2-3 pumps to a cotton wool pad and sweep over the face, but this means a lot of the essence just sits in your pad, and you end up wasting quite a bit of product,” says Marinkovich. She says it’s best to dispense “4-5 pumps of the essence into the palms of your hands, then pressing the product gently into your skin.”
Side Effects Of Skin Essence
Most essences are very gentle hydrating concoctions that anyone can use without side effects. A few will contains powerful ingredients, like retinol or glycolic acid, that could irritate sensitive skin. Dr Nazarian explains: “[The] risk of irritability increases when used in this form as it is being applied directly to cleansed skin in a way that increases penetration.”
Skin Essences VS Toners
Both skin essences and toners are very lightweight products designed to increase hydration. Traditional toners contain “astringent properties to tone and clean more thoroughly and remove additional oil and dirt,” says Dr Nazarian. Said that, a lot of modern formulations aren’t astringent and not at all different from a skin essence. When in doubt, check the ingredient list.
Skin Essences VS Serums
Essences are slightly different than serums. They’re more lightweight and contain a lower concentration of active ingredients. In other words, they’re not as powerful. They can supplement a serum, but are no replacement for it.
What Are The Best Essences To Invest In?
Benton Fermentation Essence ($27.00): A soothing essence with probiotics to reduce irritations and hydrates skin. Available at Soko Glam, Stylevana, Superdrug, and Yes Style.
Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence ($24.00): A hydrating essence with soothing probiotics and niacinamide, a do-it-all ingredient that brightens skin, soothes irritations, and helps treat acne. Available at Beauty Bay, Look Fantastic, Sephora, Stylevana, and Yes Style.
Good Molecules Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Essence ($14.00): A super hydrating essence with 3 forms of hyaluronic acid and urea to plump up wrinkles and restore softness and suppleness to all skin types. Available at Ulta.
Do You Need A Skin Essence In Your Skincare Routine?
All the dermatologists I’ve talked to agree that a skin essence is a nice-to-have for most people and a bonus for dehydrated skin. But they’re by no means a must-have. Dr Nazarian says: “while a skin essence is a nice addition to your skincare routine, it’s not as crucial as, say, your moisturizer.”
Clinical facialist, Kate Kerr, shares: “Personally, I’m not a fan of essences. This is purely because the active cosmeceutical serums I recommend are effective enough without needing to use them, come backed by clinical science and are proven to deliver improvement in skin health and function.” I 100% agree with her. If you have a great skincare routine working for you, you don’t need an essence too.
The Bottom Line
Essences are a hybrid between a toner and a serum. Incredibly hydrating, their lightweight textures allow you to pack on several layers of hydration without the greasiness. They’re suitable for all skin types, but use them only if you need the extra hydration.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
